Each November 10, Split Rock Lighthouse's beacon is lit to honor all mariners lost on the Great Lakes.
The wreckage of the Edmund Fitzgerald was discovered in May, 1976.
On November 10th, 1975, we lost the SS Edmund Fitzgerald – a majestic Great Lakes freighter - in a powerful storm. The massive vessel ultimately sank to her final resting place - the cold and desolate depths of Lake Superior. Tragically, all 29 crew members onboard the Fitz lost their lives.
This somber day will never be forgotten, in large part due to the dedicated staff at Split Rock Lighthouse. Since 1985, Split Rock has been commemorating this day with a beautiful and heartfelt ceremony.
This event will continue once again this year – on November 10th. At 4:30 pm Central time, the lighthouse will close temporarily while the names of the departed crew members are read to the tolling of a ship's bell. Following the ceremony, the beacon will be lit, and the tower will be open again to tour.
As in years past, the public are invited to attend. Another option is to catch the ceremony on a live stream.
For information about the event, please visit: Beacon Lighting | Minnesota Historical Society.
History of the Commemoration
Hayes Scriven, Site Manager - Split Rock Lighthouse, explained how the ceremony began. “In 1985, former Site Manager Lee Radzak lit Split Rock Lighthouse’s beacon on November 10th to honor the Edmund Fitzgerald on the 10th anniversary of its sinking,” he noted.
“A few neighbors noticed the tribute and appreciated the gesture. The following year, Lee lit the beacon again, drawing a small group of visitors. From there, the tradition steadily grew, and by the 1990s, the ceremony closely resembled the service held today.
“In 2023, the ceremony welcomed 1,520 guests on site. The online stream of the event has also seen tremendous growth in recent years, enhanced by improved production quality to give remote viewers a sense of being there.
“Last year, the stream reached over 200,000 people within just five days. In a historic first for 2023, the U.S. Coast Guard joined the ceremony, adding a meaningful dimension to the service. Their participation highlighted their connection to the U.S. Lighthouse Service and their crucial role in maintaining safety on the Great Lakes.”
A crowd gathers for the memorial ceremony at Split Rock Lighthouse in 2023.
Sinking of the Fitz
Scriven is well-versed in what happened the day the Fitz went down. He generously shared the story with us.
“On November 9, 1975, the SS Edmund Fitzgerald departed from Superior, Wisconsin, loaded with 26,116 long tons of taconite bound for Detroit, Michigan. Later that day, the Fitzgerald passed Two Harbors and was joined by the SS Arthur M. Anderson. With a storm approaching, both vessels opted to follow a northern route - a common practice during severe weather.
“By the early hours of November 10th, previously issued gale warnings had escalated to storm warnings. As the ships neared Caribou Island on the eastern end of Lake Superior, Captain Cooper of the Anderson observed the Fitzgerald passing dangerously close to a shoal around 3:15 p.m.
YouTube video created by Joseph Fulton with Gordon Lightfoot's "The Wreck of the Edmund Fitgerald."
“In the hours that followed, the Fitzgerald reported various issues, including a broken fence rail, damaged vent covers, a noticeable list, and a loss of radar functionality. At 7:10 p.m., Morgan Clark, the First Mate of the Anderson, radioed the Fitzgerald to offer navigational assistance and asked how they were faring. Captain Ernest McSorley replied, ‘We are holding our own’ - the final communication ever received from the Fitzgerald. Moments later, at 7:15 p.m., the Fitzgerald vanished from sight and radar in a sudden snow squall.
“Between 7:25 and 8:25 p.m., Captain Cooper contacted other vessels and the Coast Guard, inquiring if they could locate the Fitzgerald on radar. None could. Shortly after, the Coast Guard declared the Edmund Fitzgerald and her 29 crew members missing. Initial search efforts recovered only scattered debris.
“In the days that followed, the U.S. and Canadian Coast Guards continued searching the lake. On November 14, 1975, an anti-submarine aircraft detected an object 530 feet beneath the surface, approximately 17 miles from Whitefish Point. In May 1976, an underwater research vehicle confirmed the wreck to be the Edmund Fitzgerald.”
What we Learned
Scriven shared that there were plenty of hard-earned lessons learned from the sinking of the Edmund Fitzgerald. “The sinking of the Fitz led to several important changes in Lake Superior shipping,” he said. This includes:
- Pre-November inspections of hatch and vent closures as well as lifesaving equipment became required by the Coast Guard.
- Lake Superior navigational charts were improved and made more accurate with additional details.
- To help locate ships in emergency and disastrous situations, all vessels were required to have Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRB) on board.
- The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) began to use a different system to predict wave height.
- In 1977, the Coast Guard required ships 1,600 gross register tons or greater to use depth finders.
- In 1980, vessels were required to have survival suits with attached strobe lights in the crew quarters and at regular workstations.
- Also in 1980, the LORAN-C (Long Range Navigation) navigation system was implemented over all the Great Lakes. By 1990, GPS took its place.
- The 1973 Load Line Regulation amendment was repealed. This action prevented vessels from being overloaded which meant ships could sit higher in the water.
Ships Mataafa and Maderia are two other famous shipwrecks
Well before the Fitz, there were many other powerful storms and subsequent shipwrecks on Lake Superior, making lighthouses a necessary part of the shipping industry.
For instance, a powerful storm on November 27 - 28, 1905, ravaged Lake Superior, damaging twenty-nine ships and claiming the lives of 30 men. Shockingly, a third of the damaged vessels were uninsured.
Scriven shared details of two other devastating shipwrecks that occurred in 1905, of The SS Mataafa and the SS Madeira.
The Mataafa
During the storm, the Mataafa attempted to enter Duluth's port but struck the North Pier, tearing off its rudder. The vessel was then swept back out into the lake, where its stern collided with the South Pier. The ship eventually ran aground just outside the harbor, cracking in two. High winds prevented the nearby life-saving station from reaching the vessel until the following day. Tragically, nine men trapped in the aft section succumbed to exposure, while fifteen men in the forward section were rescued.
The Mataafa is a vessel that went down in Lake Superior during a powerful 1905 storm, as it tried to enter Duluth’s port. Photo courtesy MNHS Collection.
The Madeira
The Madeira, a schooner barge being towed by the William Edenborn, became separated during the storm - either by force of the waves or a deliberate release. The barge drifted and smashed into Gold Rock Point, about half a mile north of where Split Rock Lighthouse now stands. As the vessel struck the cliffs, crewman Fred Benson seized a moment to leap onto the rocky point. He climbed to the top and threw down a rope, helping save seven of his eight crewmates. Sadly, the first mate was swept overboard by a rogue wave and lost. The surviving crew waited on Gold Rock for two days until the tugboat Edna G arrived to rescue them.
The SS Madeira is a schooner barge that went down in Lake Superior in 1905. Photo courtesy MNHS Collection.
As a result of these – and many other - shipwrecks, Split Rock lighthouse was built as a navigational aid in 1910.
The Role of Lighthouses Played
Scriven shared that lighthouses are still used today. However, many of them – including Split Rock - have been decommissioned and repurposed.
While it has been decommissioned and repurposed, Split Rock Lighthouse still emits a powerful beam of light. Photo courtesy Hayes Scriven Photography.
“Lighthouses are still used in several ways today. Some, known as active aids to navigation, are managed by the U.S. Coast Guard and mark hazards or ports.
“Many lighthouses are privately owned, while the Coast Guard maintains and monitors the light itself,” he added. “Then there are decommissioned stations, like Split Rock Lighthouse, which no longer serve as navigational aids and have been repurposed, often as museums or bed-and-breakfasts.”
Several lighthouses remain on Lake Superior’s North Shore, including Duluth and Superior:
- Grand Marais Breakwall Lighthouse
- Split Rock Lighthouse
- Two Harbors Breakwall Lighthouse
- Two Harbors Lighthouse
- Duluth North Pier Lighthouse
- Duluth South Pier Lighthouse
- Duluth South Breakwater Inner Light
- Minnesota Point Lighthouse (Ruines)
- Wisconsin Point Lighthouse
Respect Mother Nature
As we commemorate the sinking of the Fitz, it is important to remember that Mother Nature is always in charge. Scriven shared that it is his duty to continue to honor the Edmund Fitzgerald, while reminding people of Lake Superior’s immense power.
“I consider it part of my job to honor not only the crew of the Edmund Fitzgerald but also all those lost on Lake Superior,” Scriven noted. “By continuing to commemorate the tragedy of the Fitzgerald, I hope to remind everyone that while Lake Superior is beautiful, it can also be incredibly dangerous.”
When enjoying Lake Superior, it is imperative that we never forget her immense power. Photo courtesy Hayes Scriven Photography.
Resources
For more information about the commemoration taking place on November 10th, please visit Beacon Lighting | Minnesota Historical Society.
Gordon Lightfoot’s hauntingly beautiful song, “Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald,” which was recorded in 1976, can be accessed here: Gordon Lightfoot - Wreck Of The Edmund Fitzgerald (Official Audio)
May the 29-man crew of the Fitz and singer/songwriter Gordon Lightfoot (who died in 2023) rest in peace.
______________________________________________________________________________
Andrea Busche is a Duluth + regional freelance writer and small business owner. She is credited with over 1,000 bylines in local print and digital publications, and has been a frequent contributor to Destination Duluth since 2017.
